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Magqubu and
I had surveyed all the
wilderness trail routes and
completed our planning.
He knew
what was at stake because he would be the eyes
and ears of the trail party, and if anything
went wrong on the first trail, in
bureaucratic language, we would be
for the chop as there were, however, still
officials who
opposed the trails.
The Natal
Parks Board head office reported that no one in the
public had shown any interest in
making a reservation.
There were the usual
news
stories too of how we were stopping
development of tourist camps.
Roy Rudden, a newspaper
friend on the Sunday Times, took some beautiful photographs in the game reserve and wrote a
story called "Adventure at a Pound a
Day." Placards emblazoned with these
words appeared throughout South Africa on a
Sunday morning.
On Monday the
switchboard of the headquarters of the Natal Parks Board was jammed with calls
from humans trying to make reservations.
wilderness trails had arrived.
For the first time in the history
of modern South Africa, humans were going to be walking trails in the
wilderness inside a game
reserve among wild animals and sleeping out on the
veld.
This was a revolutionary
concept.
Heretofore visitors to game
reserves and national parks throughout most of eastern and southern Africa were
required to stay in a vehicle and many bureaucrats were against the
idea of allowing trailists into the
wilderness.
On
March 19, 1959, Magqubu and I lead the first
official
wilderness trail in the
Mfolozi game reserve for the Natal Parks Board. It was the culmination of many
years of hard work and the start of a new
dimension in wildlife
conservation.
Magqubu led the trail
party of six humans along the steep path down from Momfu Cliffs to the Mpafa
River, then followed the rhino
paths south to Mahobosheni, where the
donkeys had taken the mess kit and the tents.
It was getting dark, and we
all relaxed because we only had a hundred meters to walk to the camp.
There was a faint sound in a nearby wallow, and
I turned to see the glint of
light on the horn of a
black rhino.
Before
I could even shout the black rhino came storming toward us, snorting and crashing
through the bush.
The trailists performed undreamed of physical
achievements, pulling themselves up into trees
with one hand or scattering in all directions,
shouting at the tops of their voices.
When the black rhino had gone and everyone was together again,
we found no one was hurt beyond a few scratches and a sprain, Magqubu said,
"The amadhlozi were with us
today."
I knew he was right, because if the
black rhino had killed anyone, the bureaucrats who
were against the trails would have ensured the concept died an early
death.
Later in the evening
Magqubu laughed and laughed.
He showed how the black rhino charged and the acrobatics of the humans
going up the trees, their shouting and their running.
I was to witness this many
times.
It was for him hilarious to see
white humans scatter when a black rhino charged.
This was his cinema.
Magqubu was animated by this
category of
excitement, and in later years
when we were on trails he liked nothing more than to see humans running pell
mell for the trees when a
black rhino threatened.
Magqubu
thought it was even funnier if in their
haste they climbed a thorn tree.
His
stomach would bob up and down and his hand would
slap the earth.
He elaborated on
all the sounds the humans made, the stifled
"yips" of fear, the swear
words when thorns hooked into
flesh, the different actions when running.
Magqubu missed nothing, and his nuances bit to the bone.
If
anyone ever farted in fear, he really
had a field day.
His descriptive
powers were used until everyone was screaming
with laughter, and he would walk ahead of the group making the farting noise
with his lips, his shoulders shaking with mirth.
Magqubu was never
crude, but he was very basic.
I did not
dare tell some of the humans the names Magqubu
gave them - they would have been mortally offended.
Magqubu's
eyes and ears
missed nothing, and the names were often
unpalatably true.
Throughout
history men and women have been entranced by wild Africa. It
has great depth of soul, and humans are gripped
by its strange, brooding spirit. The ancient Egyptians, Greeks, Arabs, and
Romans took expeditions into its
heartland.
The Arabs said, "Once
you have tasted of the waters of Africa,
you need to return to have your fill thereof."
The Romans said, "Ex
Africa semper aliquid novi" (Out of Africa always
something new). Part of their
empire extended into North
Africa, and they were affected by the rhythms of this ancient continent. They
captured many wild animals -
lion, rhino,
and elephant - and took them across the
Mediterranean to the great Coliseum: They used cannabis to calm the animals.
The old wild Africa
influenced many of the great
men and women of our
time. Theodore Roosevelt,
president of the
United States of
America, hunted
frequently in Uganda, and he
remembered it always.
"I
speak of Africa and golden
joys"; the
joy of wandering through
lonely lands; the
joy of hunting the mighty and terrible
lords of the wilderness.
... In these greatest of the Earth's great
hunting grounds there are mountain peaks
whose snows are dazzling under the
equatorial sun; ... lakes like seas;
skies that burn
above deserts ... mighty
rivers rushing out of the
heart of the continent ... forests of gorgeous
beauty, where
death broods in the
dark and silent depths. ... These
things can be told. There are no
words that can tell the hidden
spirit of the
wilderness, that can
reveal its mystery, its melancholy and its
charm ... the large tropic
moons, and
the splendor of the new stars. ... Where the
wanderer sees the awful glory of
sunrise and sunset in the wide
spaces of the Earth, unworn of
man, and
changed only by the slow
change of the ages through time
everlasting. -Theodore
Roosevelt, African Game Trails
F. C. Selous was Theodore Roosevelt's guide, and he had
once hunted at Ndumu. He had a great influence on
Theodore Roosevelt's
life. They spent weeks together in the African
wilderness hunting rare
species for the Smithsonian Institution.
One can imagine the long
conversations they had around the fire at
night, with lions roaring, hyena whooping, elephants trumpeting, jackals screaming.
In the morning, when the
thermals swirled, they would have
listened to the fish
eagle, its long call piercing the stillness and echoing over the
lakes, forests, and swamps.
Theodore Roosevelt was the
rock upon which the
conservation movement was built in the
United States of
America, and it was due to him that
America became the
leader in
environmental protection, the
establishment of national parks,
and wildlife management. You need only glance
at the index of Bill S 1176, the 1957 Senate hearings about the National
Wilderness Preservation Act, to see the profound influence
Theodore Roosevelt had on
conservation in the
United States. He foresaw
the conservation
problems that were to face
America.
Theodore Roosevelt was the driving
force in the
America Bison Society. It was estimated that there were sixty
million bison on the plains when Lewis and
Clark crossed the North American continent
in the early 1800s.
Theodore
Roosevelt had difficulty in finding eight hundred
bison at the turn of this century.
I can imagine that in his
mind's eye he
saw once again the vast herds of African buffalo and antelope, and the memory drove him on to
save the remaining
bison.
In 1908
Theodore Roosevelt brought all the
state governors in the United
States of America to a
conservation conference, and it was from
this conference that the National Park Service became established in 1916.
There is hardly a country on Earth
today that does not have a national
park, and the African experience of
Theodore Roosevelt was the
motivating
force.
Theodore Roosevelt and
F. C. Selous kept up a correspondence until
F. C. Selous was killed by a
sniper's bullet in Tanganyika in
World War I.
Theodore Roosevelt said, "Aggressive
fighting for the
right is the noblest sport the
Earth affords."
Many
conservationists have been inspired by these
words.
Why is it that so many
people have been caught in the spiritual web
of Africa?
Is it not because it was here that
mankind took its first steps and emerged
from the dark
forests to walk upright into the
savannah?
In a BBC interview with John
Freeman, Carl Gustav Jung said, "We do not come onto the
Earth tabula rasa."
Three million years of evolution in Africa is imprinted upon the
human psyche, and perhaps this leads to a deep
yearning to return, to see the red
earth, to hear the cry of the
fish eagle, the roar of the
lion, and the scream
of the elephant.
Carl Jung was
another
man whose life was changed by the African
experience.
In the autumn of 1925
Carl Jung visited
Kenya and Uganda.
Carl Jung came to
learn, before it was too late, something
about the archetypal
nature of mankind.
Carl Jung wakes, traveling in a train, at
sunrise, and on a steep red cliff he sees and describes in Memories, Dreams,
Reflections "a slim, brownish-black figure... motionless, leaning on a long
spear. ..."
It gave Carl Jung an
intense sense of
déjà vu.
"I could not guess what string
within
myself was plucked at the
sight of that solitary
dark hunter.
I knew
only that his Earth had been mine for
countless millennia." -
Carl Jung
Carl Jung had reconnected with his own interior Africa, and
he always referred to Africa as "God's country."
For the rest of his life
Carl Jung emphasized how important the
African experience had been to him and
his work.
Carl Jung's psychology has influenced Western
thought by making
humans
aware of the importance of
archetypal images in subconscious
thought and their
symbolic effect in
dreams.
Ian
Player, author and conservationist
See
John Muir
See Edward
Abbey
See Rachel Carson
See
Charles Darwin
See Henry David Thoreau
See John Wesley Powell
See Marcus Aurelius V
See Thomas Aquinas
See Rene
Descartes
See David Hume
See
John Stuart Mills
See Ralph Waldo Emerson
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